Epoxy resin

Epoxy resin, epoxy or resin - what's the difference?

Epoxy, resin or epoxy resin are terms that are becoming increasingly popular among wood turners. Let's take a look at what these terms mean.

Although these terms may initially cause confusion, they all stand for the synthetic resin used to cast jewellery, river tables, geodes, hybrid pen blanks or shell blanks.

Epoxy resin is a widely used term in English when it comes to epoxy resin. Due to the great influence of English-speaking artists, this term spilled over into our latitudes. Colloquially, the terms resin and epoxy are also used separately.

What exactly is epoxy resin?

In somewhat complicated technical terms, epoxy resin refers to polymers that react when a hardener is added to form a thermosetting plastic. In other words, a liquid material mixture consisting of synthetic resin and hardener, which hardens after some time to form a solid body.

This universally applicable material is characterised by the fact that it is no longer deformable after curing and is extremely clear.

Areas of application for epoxy resin and epoxy resins

Epoxy resins are extremely versatile materials that are ideal for turned workpieces. It is not without reason that working with epoxy resin is very popular among woodturners. The creative design possibilities are the basis for attractive and unusual bowls, pieces of jewellery or writing instrument blanks. Benefit from the almost limitless possibilities that arise when designing objects with epoxy resins and colour pigments.

The glass-like structure of the synthetic resin is characterised by its high transparency. Moulding with burls or wood remnants results in extremely attractive workpieces. When turned, they produce unique handles, bowls, plates, balls and writing implements.

Some epoxy resins and epoxy resins are particularly heat-resistant and provide the basis for customised ashtrays.

Which epoxy manufacturers are available in our online shop

In our online shop you will find epoxy resins, epoxy resins and matching pigments from various manufacturers and our own brand KS.

Hackl Epoxy

Hackl Epoxy offers high-quality casting resins that are characterised by their lasting clarity and do not turn yellow even long after processing.

Epodex

The manufacturer offers high-quality casting resins. Epodex provides its own colour pigments, pastes and drop-in colours to match its own epoxy resin.

KS colour pigments

The high-quality KS colour pigments are the best way to produce attractive and colourful workpieces. A range of different mineral or synthetic-based pigments is available. Our mica pigments are suitable for metallic effects. The synthetic pigments change colour when exposed to UV radiation or really light up when the intensity of the light increases.

Turning epoxy resin - how do I proceed?

Epoxy resin is easy to turn. It doesn't matter whether you want to turn pure epoxy resin or workpieces that are partly made of wood.

However, there is one thing to bear in mind. The right timing is important when turning epoxy resin. If the resin is left to harden for too long before further processing, it will become too brittle. It is then very likely that pieces will break out of the workpiece when turning.

However, if the epoxy resin is clamped onto the lathe too early, the workpiece may shrink after completion, i.e. become smaller. This may not sound too bad at first, but it is particularly noticeable when the resin is poured together with wood. The shrinkage of the resin will then be clearly visible at the transition to the wood in the form of an edge. After all, the wood does not shrink together with the resin.

The right time for turning epoxy resin?

As previously mentioned, you should not allow too much or too little time to pass before you continue working with the resin. It is best to clamp the workpiece on the lathe after about 4 to 5 days and get an idea of how well it can be worked. Smaller workpieces, which consist of thinner layers of resin, should possibly be put on the lathe a little earlier for test turning.

What do I need to bear in mind if I want to make a workpiece from epoxy resin and wood and wood scraps?

• Always pay attention to the correct mixing ratio. Just a few grams can make the difference between curing too quickly, too slowly or not at all.
• After mixing, leave the mixture in the beaker until heat is radiated. This is a good time to pour, as the epoxy resin starts to deaerate and the bubbles slowly rise.
• If you have left the resin to stand a little longer, it may thicken slightly. You can then either place it on the heater or in a warm water bath. This will make it more pliable again.
• You should first make a test casting so that you know how the resin behaves.
• Pour slowly into the mould with a thin stream.
• Depending on the mould, pay attention to the pouring height. Pour in several layers if necessary. Pay attention to the time between pours.
• The temperature and humidity in the workshop always play a major role. Ensure that the conditions remain constant without major fluctuations.

Epoxy resin throws bubbles, is wavy, greasy or does not become clear - what am I doing wrong?

The resin usually forms a smooth surface after casting. After curing, however, the surface can become wavy, which is not unusual and occurs because epoxy resins cure with slight ""shrinkage"". The rule of thumb here is: the higher the casting, the greater the ""shrinkage"".

If the surface becomes wavy, the following possibilities exist:

• You can simply smooth the resin with hot air from a hairdryer or with a burner. Just don't get too close and stay too long on one spot, because the heat causes the resin to react.
• In addition, minor unevenness in the surface can be removed with a little alcohol (isopropanol). To do this, spray a small amount onto the surface; polishing will make it smooth.
• If the surface is very wavy, it is advisable to apply a new layer that does not shrink.

Bubbles on the wood

• The wood may be too damp, the exothermic reaction vaporises the water and bubbles form.
• The wood is too porous and has not been sealed beforehand. Seal the wood with a layer of epoxy resin.

Air pockets and bubbles in the resin/resin

• With moulds and wood, you should ensure that the surfaces are as clean, smooth and free of dust and pores as possible. If necessary, seal any wood that is too porous with a layer of resin beforehand. If this is not the case, air bubbles may rise unexpectedly.
• When mixing resin and hardener, make sure that too much air does not get into the mixture due to excessive stirring. Always stir slowly and evenly.
• Only pour the epoxy resin at low heights and in several layers. If the pouring height is too high, the bubbles may not reach the surface before curing. It is no longer possible for them to escape.
• Tap the casting mould. This can help the air bubbles to rise more quickly.
• Air bubbles on the surface can be removed with a special ethanol-based cleaner or with the flame of a burner.
• Vacuum chamber: If you want to be really precise, place smaller workpieces in a negative pressure chamber, also known as a vacuum chamber. The negative pressure accelerates the escape of air. The inclusion of bubbles in the workpiece is almost completely eliminated.